Brooks Ross knows cashmere, as he should. His mother, Ann Ross, founded Madison Avenue’s upscale destination for women’s fashion, Leggiadro, in 1985 and now has boutiques in New York, Americana Manhasset, Melrose Place, Ocean Reef Club, Monticeto, Palm Beach, Nantucket, Palm Desert, Naples, Sarasota, Dallas and Charleston. Sticking with the foundations of luxury, Leggiadro designers and craftsman all Leggiadro clothing is spun and died in Italian factories. And their pillow soft cashmere is the best in the world…or pretty darn close.

What’s so great about cashmere?

Everybody loves cashmere - the texture, the warmth, the luxury. Have you felt it?

I mean it’s beautiful, but why is good-quality cashmere so expensive?

There is a lot of fundamental differences between types of cashmere. Five things to keep in mind are: length of fiber, location of raw fiber, color of raw fiber, location of production and weight of item.

So it’s like pima cotton - longer fibers make it softer? 

Exactly. Longer fibers create greater strength Think of it like interlocking hands with a person. If you are holding each other by your fingertips, it won’t take a lot of force to break that bond. If your hands are fully clasped, it will take more force to separate. Shorter fibers have a tendency to pill.

Then where the fiber comes from is important as well. But isn’t a goat a goat? 

There are Kashmir are in many countries; it’s where on the goat the fibers come from. Premium fibers come from a very small area in the center of its chest, the underbelly, and are hidden underneath a coarser outerlayer of hair called “guard hair.” The hair that comes from there is also the purest in color. Other parts of the animal might have fibers gray or brown. Those are harder to die.

Why Italy? 

Italians have ingrained, historical knowledge of how to deal with the fiber. Leggiadro spins their fabrics in Italy because of their ingrained luxury tradition of both spinning and dying the yarns.

What was the fifth one? 

Weight. So it might seem counterintuitive, but the lighter the material, the more delicate and luxury. A very fine sweater requires almost three times as much time to make the same sweater at a heavier weight. Our artisans are more careful about small imperfections. A broken needle or small twist can entirely ruin the quality and weave. They must be extremely meticulous.

Hence the name Leggiadro.
Right. Leggiadro means aesthetic beauty with lightness and grace.

Emma Dinzebach

Rolando Santana knows dresses. He grew up surrounded by fabric (his mother was a dressmaker) and moved to New York City in 1991 to fulfill his fashion industry dream. After twenty years in the fashion capital of the world, Santana still finds inspiration for both color and structure in his homeland.

Do you have a theme in mind when you start a new collection? 

Yes. So for Spring 2011, it’s Modern Mexican Architecture. Then finding pieces that help me translate that onto a dress, whether it’s a color story or structure. For instance, we have one print that looks like cement. It’s very textured and printed on linen fabric. So seeing a cement wall and translating it onto a dress.

What inspired Modern Mexican Architecture?

My first collection launched in the height of the recession, so I really wanted my next collection to be bright, vibrant and inspiring. Being from Mexico, there are always such bright colors: yellows, reds, stripes. Previously, we played a lot with fabrics and draping. People reacted really well to it but were also inspired by the more sophisticated pieces - the blacks, neutrals, pieces that were classic but with a modern twist.

For 2011, I sought to combine those two elements. There is an architect named Luis Barragan, and he uses bright colors but his architecture is incredibly simple. I liked the combination. The main concept of the line is simple shapes with a lot of play on fabrics - pleating, draping, sequins, but sequins used for texture. Not bling all over.

Your first job when you graduated from FIT was for Spenser Jeremy. I read they “recognized your talent.” How so? 

Since it was a small family-owned company, I was exposed to the business end - production, merchandising, working with the design team. They had a private label and never a designer who really catered to the account. They wanted me to design a few dresses, and I made a presentation. I was assigned to the account. It was my first design job, and it opened the door creatively for me.

Why dresses?

Dresses are the ultimate feminine expression. The ability to create something special that is very easy to wear. With a dress, it’s just one piece. After so many years in the fashion world, you see pieces come and go, but the dress always remains. If a woman has a choice to buy separates or a dress, a dress is the way they will go. For everything.

Do you have a fashion design who inspires you?

Not a big name designer like Dior, but I’m inspired my contemporaries. More so by just traveling, people watching. Last weekend I was walking on the beach and started picking up stones. I was inspired by the sand, neutral colors. I started sketching some designs then in the studio, see if the fabrics works for them.

So if you could travel anywhere, where would it be?

Somewhere in Mexico. I would like to find a city that brings inspiration for fall. A city I haven’t been to where I could look at textiles and fabrics. Being remote from everything. I wouldn’t choose a glamorous spot, but rather explore within my roots and translate that into a more universal, cosmopolitan taste.

Santana and I spoke a bit about on the need to be remote and alone to find inspiration and work out designs. Creating space to be inspired is even harder for a designer launching their own line, their own business. Santana continually works to achieve this balance. When he left his studio last night, he sent me an email thanking me for my time. It was almost midnight.

To sample Rolando Santana’s dresses, visit his sale this week.

Emma Dinzebach

OMG What was that? If New York Fashion week was like the tastiest Blow Pop ever, then Paris Fashion Week was a rainbow of Poprocks. Eye candy cannot graze what happened to my eyes last week. Eye ecstasy is really more like it. Thank you Emanual Ungaro for resurrecting pink. Thank you Wunderkind for showing us asymmetry in tights. And thank you Viktor & Rolf for making us wonder if we were still watching ready-to-wear. There was a nipple sticker (Ungaro), a made-from-hay step and repeat (Chanel), sometimes no shirts (YSL, Sonia Rykiel), sometimes no pants, and as models blew kisses from the catwalk designers crossed their fingers in hopes that sex still sells.

What does an average working woman do with barely there textile and pieces that reveal? I’m guessing that in the Spring, people will have to wear pants and shirts, but sheer stuck. YSL’s autumn leather pieces carried over. Candy colors and lips that pop were as frequent as toque toppers and tall platforms. Continue to accessorize with belts, headbands, earrings, sunglasses. Allow these accessories influence your fall purchases. As for businesswear, there were plenty of knee length skirts and safe for work jackets. Just because the models aren’t wearing shirts with their suits, doesn’t mean you should!

The winners? It’s hard to decipher amongst the hoopla. Louis Vuitton, with the afro wigs and feather clogs, looked harder to wear than Gaultier’s visible bra shirts. And Alexander McQueen’s fru fru skirts and devil horned hair looked uncomfortable. However, while parts of Paris fashion week made a New Yorker feel pre-pubescent (like the French can justify excess because - enter French accent - “We’ve been doing this longer than you!”) other shows remained keyed to consumers needs (Hermes, Alexander Wang, Giles). Until spring, patience.

Photos: Paris Fashion Week, Spring 2010, Ready-to-Wear  Ungaro, YSL, Sonia Rykiel, Viktor & Rolf

Emma Dinzebach

You name it, they’re participating. Never before has the fashion community united as strongly as they will Thursday, September 10th for much anticipated “Fashion’s Night Out.” Anna Wintour’s brainchild, this evening aims truly aims to promote retail, restore consumer confidence, celebrate fashion and unite industry aspects. There are no tickets, no invitations, no exclusive lists. From 6p.m. to 11p.m. stores will welcome customers with giveaways, sweepstakes, cocktails and mini manicures and more.

The Vogue City normally encourages bargain shopping, widely discouraging full price purchasing, but Fashion’s Night Out is more than just shopping.  All proceeds from Fashion’s Night Out official t-shirt sales will benefit the National September 11th Memorial and Museum. Over 700 retail stores in the 5 boroughs are on board to participate and in addition to celebrating, many retailers are taking a charity angle. A city-wide clothing drive where people can donate new or gently used clothing will kick off to benefit the New York City AIDS Fund. The collected clothing will be distributed to 17 area AIDS charities. For a list of retailers accepting the clothing donations, click here.
With Zac Posen painting one of a kind dresses at Bergdorf and a Patrick McMullen photo exhibit at Lord & Taylor, participation is running the gamut. It wouldn’t be New York and it wouldn’t be Vogue without some star alignment. WWD reports Sienna Miller at Intermix, Hugh Jackman at Jeffery, the Olsen twins at Barney’s, Charlize Theron at Dior, Justin Timberlake at Saks and the list goes on.

Rich, poor or somewhere in between, this is an unprecedented global event orchestrated by the American fashion industry. No where else in the world could such an ambitious, charitable and energetic idea, accessible to every citizen regardless of class, color, or cash flow, ignite a global phenomenon pulling together every teeny aspect of monstrous industry. Despite the state of our economy, shaky decision-making and heart-wrenching loss in some of our most creative industries, we are New Yorkers. Like Bergdorf’s president and CEO, Jim Gold, said a few weeks back, “You can lay down and do nothing, or beat the drum and create excitement.” In New York, we’re drum beaters.
Fashion’s Night out is an initiative supported by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, The City of New York, New York & Co., and Vogue. For a list of retailers, timelines or other information, visit www.fashionsnightout.com.